Костюм: стиль, форма, функция - Кристофер Бруард

Suit and Style Warfare // History Workshop Journal. 1984. Vol. XVIII. P. 77–91; Peiss K. Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style. Philadelphia, PA, 2011.

113

Alford H. The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence // The Men’s Fashion Reader / Ed. by P. McNeil and V. Karaminas. Oxford, 2009. P. 354.

114

Turner R. H., Surace S. J. Zoot-suiters and Mexicans: Symbols in Crowd Behavior // The Subcultures Reader / Ed. by K. Gelder and S. Thornton. London, 1997. P. 382.

115

Cit. ex Tulloch C. My Man, Let Me Pull your Coat to Something: Malcolm X // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explanations and Analysis / Ed. by S. Bruzzi and P. Church Gibson. London, 2000. P. 304.

116

Breward C. Fashioning London: Clothing and the Modern Metropolis. Oxford, 2004. P. 126. (Бруард К. Модный Лондон: одежда и современный мегаполис / Пер. с англ. Е. Демидовой и др. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2016. С. 131.)

117

Willcock H. D. Mass Observation Report on Juvenile Delinquency. London, 1949. P. 41.

118

Bartlett D. Socialist Dandies International: East Europe, 1946–59 // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2013. Vol. XVII.3 (June). P. 250.

119

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120

Chenoune F. A History of Men’s Fashion. Paris, 1993.

121

Celant G. Towards the Mass Dandy // Giorgio Armani. New York, 2003. P. XVIII.

122

Colaiacomo P. Factious Elegance. P. 56.

123

Pasolini P. The Divine Mimesis, Canto II, 1963. 24. Cit. ex ibid. P. 58.

124

Steele V. The Italian Look // Volare: The Icon of Italy in Global Pop Culture / Ed. by Giannino Malossi. New York, 1999. P. 91.

125

Colaiacomo P. Factious Elegance. P. 105–107.

126

Celant G. Towards the Mass Dandy. P. XVII.

127

Ibid. P. XV.

128

Breward C. Camp and the International Language of 1970s Fashion // Walter Albini and his Times: All Power to the Imagination / Ed. by M. L. Frisa and S. Tonchi. Venice, 2010. P. 16.

129

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130

Buckley R., Gundle S. Flash Trash: Gianni Versace and the Theory and Practice of Glamour // Fashion Cultures. P. 331–348.

131

Nelson K. Playboy // Gucci: The Making Of. New York, 2011. P. 208, 280.

132

Wilkes J. Tom Ford // Gucci. P. 54.

133

Taylor L. Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in Women’s Dress in Britain, 1865–1885 // Defining Dress: Dress as Object, Meaning and Identity / Ed. by A. de la Haye and E. Wilson. Manchester, 1999. P. 33.

134

Cunningham P. A. Reforming Women’s Fashion, 1850–1920. Kent, OH, 2003.

135

Garber M. Vested Interests: Cross-dressing and Cultural Anxiety. London, 1992; Bulloch V., Bulloch B. Cross Dressing, Sex and Gender. Philadelphia, PA, 1993.

136

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137

de Frece V. Recollections of Vesta Tilley. London, 1934. P. 125.

138

Showalter E. Sexual Anarchy: Gender and Culture at the Fin-de-siècle. London, 1992.

139

Gundle S. Glamour: A History. Oxford, 2008. P. 325. (Гандл С. Гламур / Пер. с англ. М. Гардер и др. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2011. С. 279.)

140

Андерсен Г. К. Сказки. Истории: Пер. с дат / [Сост. и примеч. Л. Брауде; вступ. ст. К. Паустовского. Ил.: В. Пивоваров]. М.: Худож. лит., 1973. С. 68.

141

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142

Андерсен Г. К. Цит. изд. С. 71.

143

Loos A. The Principle of Dressing. Cit. ex Wigley M. White Walls, Designer Dresses: The Fashion of Modern Architecture. Cambridge, MA, 2001. P. 13.

144

Wigley M. Op. cit. P. 12.

145

Le Corbusier. Towards a New Architecture // Wigley M. White Walls. Р. 16.

146

Le Corbusier. The Decorative Art of Today / Transl. James Dunnett. London, 1987. P. XXIII.

147

Le Corbusier. The Decorative Art of Today / Transl. James Dunnett. London, 1987. P. 7.

148

Ibid. Р. 8.

149

Ibid. Р. 87.

150

Wigley M. Op. cit. P. 90–91.

151

Colomina B. The Split Wall: Domestic Voyeurism // Sexuality and Space / Ed. by B. Colomina. New York, 1992. P. 73–130.

152

Stern R. Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 1850–1930. Cambridge, MA, 2004. P. 31–32.

153

Cit. ex ibid. Р. 157–158.

154

Cit. ex ibid. Р. 167.

155

Chenoune F. A History of Men’s Fashion. Paris, 1993. P. 170.

156

Brevik-Zender H. Writing Fashion from Balzac to Mallarme // Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity / Ed. by G. Groom. New Haven, CT, 2012. P. 54.

157

Cit. ex Thiébaut P. An Ideal of Virile Urbanity // Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity /