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upon the “Lower Sort”, 143.

282

Ibid., 155.

283

White, Slave Clothing, 150.

284

Ibid., 160.

285

Ibid., 156.

286

Ibid., 156–70

287

Prude, To Look upon the “Lower Sort”, 155.

288

Ibid.

289

White, Slave Clothing, 162.

290

Prude, To Look upon the “Lower Sort”, 155.

291

Ibid., 156.

292

Ibid.

293

Watson, John F., and Willis P. Hazard. Annals of Philadelphia, and Pennsylvania, in the Olden Time: Being a Collection of Memoirs, Anecdotes, and Incidents of the City and Its Inhabitants, and of the Earliest Settlements of the Inland Part of Pennsylvania: Intended to Preserve the Recollections of Olden Time, and to Exhibit Society in Its Changes of Manners and Customs, and the City and Country in Their Local Changes and Improvements. Philadelphia: J.M. Stoddart & Co., 1877. 445

294

White, Shane, and Graham J. White. Stylin: African American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell U.P., 1999, 114–118.

295

Ibid., 119.

296

Gordon, Taylor. Born to Be. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1995, 116–117.

297

White, Stylinn' African American Expressive Culture, 155.

298

Rosengarten, Theodore. All Gods Dangers: the Life of Nate Shaw. New York: Vintage Books, a Division of Penguin Random House LLC, 2018, 161.

299

Lewis, Hylan. Blackways of Kent. Chapel Hill: The Univ. of North Carolina Press, 1955, 54.

300

Ban on Freak Suits Studied by Councilmen. Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.

301

MacWilliams, Carey, and Matt S. Meier. North from Mexico the Spanish-Speaking People of the United States. New York, NY: Greenwood Press, 1990.

302

Cosgrove, Stuart. The Zoot-Suit and Style Warfare. History Workshop Journal 18, no. 1 (1984): 77–91. https://doi.org/10.1093/hwj/18.1.77.

303

Ibid., 81.

304

White, Stylinn' African American Expressive Culture, 249–251.

305

Amsterdam News, May 29, 1943.

306

Ellison, Ralph. Invisible Man. Brantford, Ontario: W. Ross MacDonald School Resource Services Library, 2018.

307

Pagan, E. O. Los Angeles Geopolitics and the Zoot Suit Riot, 1943. Social Science History 24, no. 1 (January 2000): 223–56, 244. https://doi.org/10.1215/01455532–24–1–223.

308

Esguerra, Clarissa M. Putting on a Zoot Suit: A Case of Race and Class in the First Truly American Suit. Vestoj, December 13, 2016. http://vestoj.com/putting-on-a-zoot-suit/.

309

Paz, Octavio. The Labyrinth of Solitude. London: Penguin, 1990, 5–6.

310

Baudelaire, Charles. The Dandy from The Painter of Modern Life (1863) in The Rise of Fashion, 2004, 192.

311

d’Aurevilly, Barbey. The Anatomy of Dandyism with Some Observations on Beau Brummel in The Rise of Fashion, 2004, 174.

312

Carlyle, Thomas. Sartor Resartus. K. Mc Sweeney and Peter Sabor, 1987.

313

Baudelaire, The Dandy.

314

Tenney Feels Riots Caused by Nazi Move for Disunity, Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.

315

Watts Pastor Blames Riots on Fifth Column. Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.

316

Himes, Chester. Zoot Riots are Race Riots in Himes, Chester B. Black on Black: Baby Sister and Selected Writings. London: Joseph, 1975.

317

Ibid., 199.

318

Ellison, Ralph. A Collection of Critical Essays, 1974, 67.

319

Frazier, E. Franklin. Black Bourgeoisie: the Rise of a New Middle Class. New York: Free Press, 1957, 176.

320

Ibid., 189.

321

Ibid., 167–168.

322

Moody, Anthony David. Coming of Age in Mississippi. New York: Dial Press, 1968, 238.

323

Ibid., 239.

324

Howard, Aaron. There’s a Deep Tradition behind Wearing Your Sunday Best. Jewish Herald-Voice, April 7, 2011. http://jhvonline.com/theres-a-deep-tradition-behind-wearing-your-sunday-best-p10854–147.htm.; see, e.g., Pinn, Anthony. Black Religion and Aesthetics, 2009.

325

Ford, Tanisha. SNCC Women, Denim, and the Politics of Dress. The Journal of Southern History, Vol. LXXIX, No. 3, August 2013, 639–40.

326

Ibid. 446.

327

Carmichael, Stokely, and Charles V. Hamilton. Black Power: the Politics of Liberation in America, 1967.

328

Carson, Clayborne. In Struggle: SNCC and the Black Awakening in the 1960s. Harvard University Press, 1995.

329

Cleaver, Eldridge. As Crinkly As Yours, in S.O.S. Calling All Black People: a Black Arts Movement Reader, 2014, 135–144.

330

Mainspring of Black Power: Stokely Carmichael, London Observer, July 23, 1967.

331

X, Malcom. The Autobiography of Malcolm X. London: Penguin books, 1965, 55.

332

Natural Hair: New Symbol of Race Pride, Ebony, December 1967, 137.

333

X, Malcolm. Not Just an American Problem But a World Problem. Address delivered in the Corn Hill Methodist Church. Rochester, New York, 16 February 1965.

334

Ford, SNCC Women, 643.

335

Makeba, Miriam. Makeba My Story. Johannesburg: Skotaville Publ., 1988, 155–156.

336

Allen, Robert L. Black Awakening in Capitalist America: an Analytic History. Trenton, N.J: Africa World Press, 1992, 142.

337

Wolfe, Tom. Radical Chic & Mau-Mauing the Flak Catchers. London: Bantam, 1971, 7–8.

338

Barthes, Roland. A Case of Cultural Criticism, Communications 14, 1969.

339

Report from Black America, Newsweek, June 30, 1969, 22.

340

Black, Joe. By the