Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд

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97

Kuhns. The Habit, 25.

98

Ibid., 93, 439.

99

Hills, H. The Veiled Body: Within the Folds of Early Modern Neapolitan Convent Architecture. Oxford Art Journal 27, no. 3 (January 2004): 269–90. https://doi.org/10.1093/oaj/27.3.269.

100

Ibid., 276.

101

Ibid., 284.

102

Ibid., 283.

103

Vargas Maciucca, Francesco. Degli Abuis introdotti ne monastery delle monache per le doti e per le spese che vogliono dale donzelle… e loro Riforma, Dissertazone scritta d’ordine degli Eccellentissi mi Signore Eletti di Napoli. 1745.

104

Hills. The Veiled Body, 278.

105

Kollar, Rene. A Foreign and Wicked Institution?: the Campaign Against Convents in Victorian England. Havertown: James Clarke & Co, 2014, 19–38.

106

Berman, Cassandra. Wayward Nuns, Randy Priests, and Women’s Autonomy: Convent Abuse and the Threat to Protestant Patriarchy in Victorian England, dissertation, Macalester College, May 1. 2006 (copy on file with author); Kuhns. The Habit, 120.

107

Kuhns. The Habit, 130.

108

Ibid., 130.

109

Ibid., 134.

110

Ibid., 138.

111

Modernizing Nun Habits, Life 33, no. 24. December 15, 1952.

112

Nuns to Wear New Garb by Dior. The New York Times. The New York Times, August 31, 1964. https://www.nytimes.com/1964/08/31/archives/nuns-to-wear-new-garb-by-dior.html.; Kuhns. The Habit, 145.

113

Kuhns. The Habit, 144.

114

Daly, Mary. The Church and the Second Sex. Boston: Beacon Press, 1985, 53.

115

Kuhns. The Habit, 156–7.

116

Ibid., 159–60.

117

Aquinas, Thomas. Prima Pars Secunde Partis Summe Theologie. Uenetijs impssa: P Andream de torresanis de Asula, Bartolemu de blauijs de Alexandria, Mapheum de peterbonis de salodio socios, 1483.

118

Bingen, Hildegard av. Scivias. New York: Paulist Press, 1990. (Book II, vision 6, 77).

119

Hollander. Sex and Suits, 45.

120

Hotchkiss, Valerie R. Clothes Make the Man Female Cross Dressing in Medieval Europe. New York: Routledge, 2012.

121

See, Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy; Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions.

122

Castiglione. The Book of the Courtier. (Book II, sections 11–12.)

123

Bennett, J. M., and S. Mcsheffrey. Early, Erotic and Alien: Women Dressed as Men in Late Medieval London. History Workshop Journal 77, no. 1 (October 2014): 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1093/hwj/dbt046, 10–13.

124

Ibid., 13.

125

Hall, Edward. Halls Chronicle: Containing the History of England, during the Reign of Henry the Fourth, and the Succeeding Monarchs, to the End of the Reign of Henry the Eighth, in Which Are Particularly Described the Manners and Customs of Those Periods. London: Printed for J. Johnson, 1809, 513.

126

Killerby. Sumptuary Law in Italy, p. 64.

127

Bennett and McSheffrey. Early, Erotic and Alien, 2.

128

Ibid., 3.

129

Chenoune, Farid, Richard Martin, and Deke Dusinberre. A History of Mens Fashion. Paris: Flammarion, 1995, 10.

130

J.C. Flugel, The Great Masculine renunciation and Its Causes, from The Psychology of Clothes, (1930) in Purdy, Daniel L. The Rise of Fashion: a Reader. Minneapolis, Minn: University of Minnesota Press, 2004.

131

Weber, Max. The Protestant Ethic and the Spirit of Capitalism: a Classic Study of the Fundamental Relationships between Religion and the Economic and Social Life in Modern Culture. New York: Scribner, 1958, 169.

132

Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits the Evolution of Modern Dress. London: Bloomsbury, 2016, 80–81.

133

Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 9.

134

Kuchta, David, The Three Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England 1550–1850, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2002, 79.

135

SAUSSURE César de., and Berthold van. MUYDEN. Lettres Et Voyages De Monsr César De Saussure En Allemagne, En Hollande, Et En Angleterre, 1725–1729. Pp. xlvi. 390. Lausanne, 1903, 57–58.

136

Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Mens Clothes 1600–1900. London: Faber And Faber Limited, 1977, 105.

137

Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 19.

138

Dogood, Silence. The New England Courant, June 11, 1972, 45 edition.

139

Zakim, Michael. Ready-Made Democracy: a History of Mens Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press, 2003, 21.

140

Ibid., 32.

141

Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: a History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1996, 20. (Le Moniteur universel, no 39, Ire decade de Brumaire, l’an II (30 October 1793)).

142

Flugel, 104.

143

Flugel, 104.

144

Zakim, Ready-Made Democracy, 203.

145

Anderson, Benedict. Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism. London: Verso, 1998.

146

The Act of Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress, 19 George II, cap 39, sec.17, 1746.

147

Heritable Jurisdictions (Scotland). Act 1746.

148

Scottish Culture and History: The Story of Tartan Day. The Royal Caledonian Society of South Australia, http://www.rcs.org.au/content/history/cultureandhistory/The%20Story%20of%20Tartan%20Day.pdf

149

Trevor-Roper, Hugh. The Highland Tradition of Scotland, in Hobsbawm, Eric John, and Terence Osborn. Ranger. The Invention of Tradition. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Pr., 1983, 23.

150

Ibid.

151

Ibid.

152

Ramsay, Allan. Tartana, 1718, http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/a-case-for-clan-tartans/

153

Martin. A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland, (1703). http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/thoughts-on-clan-tartans/

154

Trevor-Roper, 20. See also, Scarlett, James MBE. The Origin of Clan Tartans, Scottish