Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд

Roche, Daniel, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Regime, Cambridge, U.K.: Cambridge University Press, 1996.

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques. Emile, or, Education, 1762.

Sanders, Eulanda A. The Politics of Textiles Used in African-American Slave Clothing, Textile Society of America: Textiles and Politics. (2012).

Sears, Clare. Electric Brilliancy: Cross-Dressing Law and Freak Show Displays in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco, Women’s Studies Quarterly 36, no. 3/4, (Fall– Winter, 2008).

Sennett, Richard. Flesh and Stone. New York: W.W. Norton, 1994.

Slepian, Michael L., Simon N. Ferber, Joshua M. Gold, and Abraham M. Rutchick. The Cognitive Consequences of Formal Clothing. Social Psychological and Personality Science 6, no. 6 (2015).

Soland, Birgitte. Becoming Modern: Young Women and the Reconstruction of Womanhood in the 1920s. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2002.

Steinberg, Neil, Hatless Jack, New York: Plume 2004.

Stuart-Wortley, Emmeline. Travels in the United States: during 1849 and 1850. New York: Harper & Bros., 1851.

Sullivan, Nick. Mariner: The Call of the Sea. Milan: Skira, 2012.

Trevor-Roper, Hugh. The Highland Tradition of Scotland, in Hobsbawm, Eric John, and Terence Osborn. Ranger eds. The Invention of Tradition. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983.

Vali, Donna, and Nicholas D. Rizzo. Apparel as One Factor in Sex Crimes Against Young Females: Professional Opinions of U.S. Psychiatrists. International Journal of Offend Therapy and Comparative Criminology 35, no. 2 (1991).

Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class. Macmillan, 1899.

Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes 1600–1900. London: Faber And Faber, 1977.

Weber, Max. The Protestant Ethic and the Spirit of Capitalism: A Classic Study of the Fundamental Relationships between Religion and the Economic and Social Life in Modern Culture. New York: Scribner, 1958.

West, Cornel. Race Matters. Boston: Beacon Press, 1993.

White, Shane, and Graham J. White. Stylin: African American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1999.

White, Shane, and Graham White. Slave Clothing and African-American Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. Past and Present 148, no. 1 (1995).

Wilde, Oscar. Slaves of Fashion, Woman’s Dress, More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform and Costume. Shorter Prose Pieces, Project Guttenberg (2000) (originally in the Pall Mall Gazette, 1884).

Wolfe, Tom. Radical Chic & Mau-Mauing the Flak Catchers. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1971. Wood, Gordon S. The Creation of the American Republic: 1776–1787. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, n.d.

X, Malcolm and Alex Haley. The Autobiography of Malcolm X. London: Penguin Books, 1965.

Zakim, Michael. Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men’s Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003.

Владельцы фотографий

Страница в тексте:

Williams Ford, Marlene. Rich Ford for Esquire Best-Dressed Real Men. 2009. Photograph. © Marlene Williams Ford.

Trunk Hose | Bohemian. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Bashford Dean, 1923 licensed under Creative Commons 1.0.

Statues at the House of Cleopatra in Delos, Greece. Man and woman wearing the himation. By Heiko Gorski. Licensed under Creative Commons 3.0.

Bluebeard, Raquel Welch. 1972. © Everett Collection.

© Daughters of Charity Province of St. Louis, 1964.

Le Chevalier D’Éon, a man who passed as a woman: shown half in woman’s, half in man’s attire. Engraving. Welcome Library no. 275i. Licensed under Creative Commons 4.0.

Currier, The Library of Congress. The Bloomer Costume, 1851.

O’Followell, Ludovic. Le Corset. 1905.

O’Followell, Ludovic. Le Corset. 1905.

Harper’s Magazine. 1852. January 1852 issue, 286.

Harper’s Magazine A Bloomer (in Leap Year). 1852. January 1852 issue, 286.

La crinolinomanie. Petit journal pour rire, No. 037, 1856.

Unknown. 169 1943. © Everett Collection.

Blackwell, Fred. Salter, Trumpauer, and Moody at Lunch Counter Sit-in. 1963. © Fred Blackwell.

Scherman, Rowland. Civil Rights March on Washington, DC. 1963. National Archives.

Library of Congress, Glenn Pearcy Collection. Students March in Montgomery. 1965. Photograph. © Glenn Pearcy.

Playboy Bunnies, 1975. © Associated Press.

Petteway, Steve, Collection of the Supreme Court. Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Offic Supreme Court Portrait. Photograph.

Bain News Service. Bather Posing for a Photo – Ostend. 1913. Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, LC-B2- 2711-14 [P&P]. George Grantham Bain Collection.

Sargent, Lee: @leecomptons. Photo for @midtownuniform. 2019 © Lee Sargent.

Unknown (Woman wearing a cheongsam). 2009. Licensed under China Mainland Creative Commons

© Richard Thompson Ford, 2020.

Владельцы фотографий, вкладка 1

Dress of Ancient Period. Illustration. Chicago: F. E. Compton and Company, 1914.

Unknown, Portrait of Queen Elizabeth, courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, 1550–1599.

Lynch, Albert. Portrait of Jeanne d’Arc Le Figaro Illustré. 1903.

Bennett, Veronica, Ryan Todd, and GraphicDesign&. Looking Good: A Visual Guide to the Nun’s Habit. GraphicDesign&: 2016. © Ryan Todd.

Van Meytens, Martin. Portrait of Wenzel Anton Graf von Kaunitz-Rietberg. 1749–1750.

Batoni, Pompeo. Portrait of a Man in a Green Suit, 1760s. Oil on canvas, 39 ⅛ × 29 ⅛ in. (99.38 × 73.98 cm) courtesy Dallas Museum of Art, gift of Leon A. Harris, Jr., 1954.

Dighton, Richard. George Beau Brummell, watercolor. 1850.

Women wearing crinolines which are set on fire by flames from a domestic fire Colored lithograph, ca. 1860. Wellcome Library no. 586198i. Licensed under Creative Commons 4.0.

Ellis & Walery. Miss Camille Clifford. 1906. Postcard. J. Beagles & Co. C

Bain News Service. Louise Brooks. 1920–1925. Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, LC-B2- 5474-15 [P&P]. George Grantham Bain Collection.

Владельцы фотографий, вкладка 2

Martin, David, Painting of Dido Elizabeth Belle and her cousin Lady Elizabeth Murray, courtesy The Right Honourable Earl of Mansfield, of Scone Palace, Pert © Sean Rayford, 2020.

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Chopines. 1550–1650. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; gift of Herman Delman, 1955.

Persian, 17th century. Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum. Image © 2020.

Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, Canada. © Chris Luttrell.

Modern copy of Rigaud, Hyacinthe. Portrait of Louis XIV. 1701. © Everett Collection.

Senate Democrats. Sinema Reception. Licensed under Creative Commons 2.0.

Makangara, Justin and Héctor Mediavilla. Severin Mouyengo, aka the Salopard. © Justin Makangara.

Vucci, Evan. President-elect Donald Trump arrives at Indianapolis International Airport for a visit to the Carrier factory, Thursday, Dec. 1, 2016, in Indianapolis, Ind. 2016. Photograph. © Associated Press.

Вклейка

До позднего Средневековья большинство мужчин и женщин носили драпированную одежду

Королева Елизавета I использовала выразительность одежды, чтобы продемонстрировать почти неземное величие

Надевая мужскую одежду, которая в те времена была более модной, чем женская, Жанна д’Арк как будто воплощала мужскую свободу и власть

Некоторые из самых распространенных предметов одеяния католических сестер (в обиходе их называют монахинями), каждый из которых имеет особое символическое значение: (a) Кольцо, указывающее на то, что его обладательница является невестой Христа, и сандалии, символизирующие отказ от земного богатства; (b) Верхнее платье; (c) Пояс или веревка, узлы на которых могут символизировать добродетели Девы Марии; (d) Покрывало и/или вимпл; (e) Наплечник, формой напоминающий крест, на котором был распят