Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд

Tartan Authority. (Whatever inferences enthusiastic protagonists may draw from the totally inadequate evidence, there is no clear reference to the use of tartan in the clan context before the 45 and the Clan Tartan Idea made rapid progress very soon after. There seems to be a strong probability that the Clan tartans are a direct legacy of the last Jacobite Rising.) http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/

155

Trevor-Roper, 24. 441.

156

Ibid., 30.

157

Mudie, Robert. Historical Account of His Majesty’s Visit to Scotland. Edinburgh, 1822.

158

The Scottish Register of Tartans, https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=182

159

Purdy. The Rise of Fashion, 87.

160

Ibid., 88.

161

Ibid., 89.

162

Ibid., 76.

163

Ibid., 78. (Witte, Samuel Simon. An Anwer to the Question: Would it Be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a National Uniform?)

164

Diderot, Denis. Encyclopedie Ou Dictionnaire Raisonne Des Sciences, Des Arts Et Des Metiers.

165

Kwass, Michael. Big Hair: A Wig History of Consumption in Eighteenth-Century France. The American Historical Review 111, no. 3 (January 2006): 631–59, 636. https://doi.org/10.1086/ahr.111.3.631.

166

Ibid., 635.

167

Roche, Daniel. Apparences revolutionnaires ou revolution des apparences, in Madeleine Delpierre, ed., Modes & revolutions, 1780–1804 (Paris, 1989), 30.

168

Ibid., 30–32.

169

Kwass, 635.

170

Ibid., 645.

171

Ibid., 650.

172

Mclaren, James G. A Brief History of Wigs in the Legal Profession. International Journal of the Legal Profession 6, no. 2 (1999): 241–50, 241, 245. https://doi.org/10.1080/09695958.1999.9960465.

173

Castiglione, Baldassarre, and Daniel Javitch. The Book of the Courtier: the Singleton Translation. New York: W.W. Norton, 2002.

174

Herrick, Robert. Delight in Disorder, in Hesperides, 1648.

175

Chevalier, Michel. Society, Manners and Politics in the United States. 1966, 341–42.

176

Stuart-Wortley, Emmeline. Travels in the United States: during 1849 and 1850. New York, NY: Harper & Bros., 1851.

177

Ford, Thomas, and James Shields. A History of Illinois from Its Commencement as a State in 1818 to 1847. Containing a Full Account of the Black Hawk War, the Rise, Progress and Fall of Mormonism, the Alton and Lovejoy Riots, and Ther Events. Chicago: S.C. Griggs & Co., 1854.

178

Wood, Gordon S. The Creation of the American Republic: 1776–1787. Chapel Hill: Univ. of North Carolina Press, n.d.

179

Willis, Nathaniel Parker. Walk in Broadway. New Mirror, October 21, 1843.

180

The Laws of Etiquette; or, Short Rules and Reflections for Conduct in Society. Philadelphia: Carey, Lea, & Blanchard, 1836, 136.

181

Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 21.

182

Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 86.

183

Ibid., 89. (de Serieul, Eliane. Le Diable rose 3, no.4 (July 20 1862)).

184

Ibid., 91–92. (Despaigne, Le Code de la mode.)

185

Ibid., 99. (Comtesse de Bassanville, La Sciences du Monde.)

186

Ibid., 100. (Comtesse Drohojowska, De la politesse.)

187

Ibid., 129.

188

Ibid., 135. (Comtess Dash, Comment on fait son chemin dans le monde.)

189

Hollander, Sex and Suits, 41.

190

Ibid., 66.

191

Jones, Sexing La Mode, 82–83. 442.

192

Ibid., 77.

193

Ibid., 84.

194

Hollander, Sex and Suits, 66–68.

195

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques. Emile, or, Education, 1762.

196

Jones, Sexing La Mode, 98.

197

Ibid., 98. (quoting Mercier, Tableau de Paris, 177–178.)

198

Hollander, Sex and Suits, 68.

199

Ibid., p. 54.

200

Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope. Letters to His Son; On the Art of Becoming a Man of the World and a Gentleman. Place of publication not identified: Tudor, 1917.

201

Lunettes, Henry. The American Gentlemans Guide to Politeness and Fashion, or, Familiar Letters to His Nephews: Containing Rules of Etiquette, Directions for the Formation of Character, Etc., Etc. New York: Derby & Jackson, 1859.

202

Fox, George P. Fashion, the Power That Influences the World: the Philosophy of Ancient and Modern Dress and Fashion. New York: Sheldon & Co., 1871.

203

Burrows, Simon. The Chevalier D’Eon and His Worlds: Gender, Espionage and Politics in the Eighteenth Century. London: Continuum, 2010.

204

Rodriguez McRobbie, Linda. The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon, Who Left France as a Male Spy and Returned as a Christian Woman, Atlas Obscura. July 29, 2016.

205

Burrows, Simon. Blackmail, Scandal and Revolution: Londons French Libellistes, 1758–92. Manchester: Manchester Univ. Press, 2009.

206

Rodriquez McRobbie, The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon.

207

Kates, Gary. Monsieur DEon Is a Woman: a Tale of Political Intrigue and Sexual Masquerade. Baltimore (Md.): John Hopkins University Press, 2001.

208

Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. (Le Moniteur universel, no 39, Ire decade de Brumaire, l’an.)

209

Brown, Mark. Portrait Mistaken for 18th-Century Lady Is Early Painting of Transvestite. The Guardian. Guardian News and Media, June 6, 2012. https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/jun/06/portrait-18th-century-early-transvestite.

210

Rodriquez McRobbie, The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon.

211

Ibid.

212

Ibid.

213

Zakim, Ready-made Democracy, 192.

214

Mirror of Fashion, vol. 12, no. 5. May 1850.

215

Zakim, Ready-Made Democracy, 200–201.

216