Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд

class="p1">Ibid., 201.

217

The Lily, July 1851, 53.

218

The Lily, May 1856.

219

Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889, 1.

220

Ibid.

221

Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 153.

222

Ibid., 156.

223

Debay, A. Hygiène Vestimentaire: Les Modes Et Les Parures Chez Les français Depuis létablissement De La Monarchie jusquà Nos Jours. Précédés Dun Curieux parallèle Des Modes Chez Les Anciennes Dames Grepues Et Romaines. Paris: Dentu, 1857. 170–171.

224

Flower, Benjamin Orange. Fashion’s Slaves. Boston: Arena, 1892. p. 15.

225

Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 154. 443.

226

Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 157. (quoting Verardi, Louis. Manuel du bon ton et de la politesse francaise: nouveau guide pour se conduire dans le monde.)

227

Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889. p. 2.

228

Wilde, Oscar. Slaves of Fashion, Woman’s Dress, More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform and Costume in Wilde, Oscar. Shorter Prose Pieces, Project Guttenberg (2000) (originally in the Pall Mall Gazette, 1884); Oscar Wilde, The Philosophy of Dress, New York Tribune, 1885.

229

Burke, Joanna. The Great Male Renunciation: Men’s Dress Reform in Inter-war Britain, Journal of Design History, Vol. 9, No. 1 (1996), p. 23.

230

Ibid.

231

Ibid.

232

Ibid., 24. (emphasis mine.)

233

Ibid., 26.

234

Sears, Clare. Electric Brilliancy: Cross-Dressing Law and Freak Show Displays in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco, Women’s Studies Quarterly, Vol. 36, No. 3/4, Trans- (Fall – Winter, 2008), 170–187.

235

Eskridge, William. GayLaw. 1999, 27.

236

Ibid.

237

Sears, Electric Brilliancy, 171.

238

Zakim, Ready Made Democracy, 201.

239

Makaris, Skye. This Difficult to Wear Skirt Helped to Break Down Class Barriers. Racked, December 7, 2017. https://www.racked.com/2017/12/7/16717206/cage-crinoline-feminism-class

240

Zakim, Ready Made Democracy.

241

Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as Communication. Florence: Taylor and Francis, 2013.

242

Plunder Baskets. Dundee Courier, 24 Sept., 1862.

243

Petit Journal Pour Rire. Paris, 1856. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91oHNUtfM%2BL.jpg

244

Burke, The Great Male Renunciation, 30.

245

Ibid., 126.

246

Hollander, Sex and Suits, 116.

247

Ibid., 121.

248

Ibid., 140.

249

Fitzgerald, F. Scott. Bernice Bobs Her Hair. Saturday Evening Post, May 1, 1920.

250

Hansen, Dian, History of Men’s Magazines. Koln; London: Taschen, 2004.

251

Spivak, Emily. The History of the Flapper, Part 2: Makeup Makes a Bold Entrance. Smithsonian.com. Smithsonian Institution, February 7, 2013. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/the-history-of-the-flapper-part-2-makeup-makes-a-bold-entrance-13098323/.

252

Hix, Lisa. “The Great Gatsby” Still Gets Flappers Wrong. Collectors Weekly. Accessed March 1, 2020. https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/the-great-gatsby-still-gets-flappers-wrong/.

253

Soland, Birgitte. Becoming Modern: Young Women and the Reconstruction of Womanhood in the 1920s. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2002.

254

Ibid., 25–26.

255

Ibid., 27.

256

Cohn, Gene. Woman Always Pays, Says Girl of 14 In First Flapper Tragedy: Over-Sophistication of Modern Girl Blamed for California Tragedy, Ogden Standard Examiner, May 1, 1922.

257

Actress Betty Blythe fearlessly discusses the grave dangers to which the new daring dresses’ expose women, Competitors Journal, July 1926.

258

Big Business Banishes the Flapper. Tusla Daily World, July 16, 1922.

259

Ibid.

260

Spivak, The History of the Flapper.

261

Bliven, Bruce. Flapper Jane, The New Republic, 1925.

262

Ibid.

263

Spivak, The History of the Flapper.

264

McCord, David J. The Statutes at Large of South Carolina, Vol. 7. 1840. (Containing the Act Relating to Charleston, Courts, Slaves and Rivers); see also, Sanders, Eulanda A. The Politics of Textiles Used in African-American Slave Clothing, Textile Society of America: Textiles and Politics. (2012).

265

White, Shane, and Graham White. Slave Clothing And African-American Culture In The Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries. Past and Present 148, no. 1 (1995): 149–86, 153. https://doi.org/10.1093/past/148.1.149.

266

Prude, Jonathan. To Look upon the Lower Sort’: Runaway Ads and the Appearance of Unfree Laborers in America, 1750–1800. The Journal of American History 78, no. 1 (1991): 124, 155. https://doi.org/10.2307/2078091.

267

White, Slave Clothing, 161.

268

South Carolina Gazette, November 5, 1774.

269

South Carolina Gazette, September 24, 1772.

270

White, Slave Clothing, 160.

271

South Carolina Gazette, August 27, 1772.

272

White, Slave Clothing, 155.

273

McNeil, Peter. Pretty Gentlemen Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World. New Haven, MA: Yale University Press, 2018.

274

White, Slave Clothing, 155.

275

Somerset against Stewart, 12 Geo. 3 1772, K.B. (May 14, 1772).

276

Ibid.

277

Pearne v. Lisle, Amb 75, 27 ER 47 (1749).

278

Quock Walker.

279

White, Slave Clothing, 156.

280

Id.

281

Prude, To Look