Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

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53

Fogg M. Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Phenomenon. London: Mitchell Beazley, 2003. P. 20–26; Evans C. Postwar Poses: 1955–1975 // The London Look: Fashion from Street to Catwalk / Ed. Christopher Breward, Edwina Ehrman, and Caroline Evans. London: Museum of London; New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2004. P. 118–128.

54

Montagné-Villette. Le Sentier. P. 19, 22; Pouillard V. Fashion and Youth // Restless Youth: Growing Up in Europe, 1945 to Now / Ed. Christine Dupont and Kieran Burns. Brussels: European Parliament, 2019. P. 113–123.

55

Burdell M. How We Look, 6 May 1948, 1–3, Folder 1, Box 75, Fashion Group speeches and transcripts, FG, NYPL.

56

Miller D., Woodward S. (eds) Global Denim. London: Berg, 2010; Fujioka R., Wubs B. Competitiveness of the Japanese Denim and Jeans Industry: The Cases of Kaihara and Japan Blue, 1970–2015 // European Fashion, Blaszczyk and Pouillard. P. 223–243; Gorguet-Ballesteros P. Histoires du jeans de 1750 à 1994. Paris: Paris Musées, 1994; Bourdieu P. La Distinction: Critique sociale du jugement. Paris: Les éditions de Minuit, 1979.

57

Our History, Fashion Institute of Technology [электронный ресурс]. www.fitnyc.edu/about/history.php (дата обращения 02.03.2016).

58

Pope V. One World of Fashion // New York Times. 1952. September 7. P. SMA52; Ballard. In My Fashion. P. 406–407.

59

Smith J. F. Something to Prove: A Biography of Ann Lowe, America’s Forgotten Designer. Washington, DC: Julia Faye Dockery Smith, 2016. P. 78–91.

60

Цифры указаны в стабильных франках 1952 года. Dubé-Sénécal V. La mode française: Vecteur d’influence aux Etats-Unis de l’après-guerre à l’orée des années 1960. [Диссертация на соискание ученой степени PhD]. Université de Montréal, 2018. P. 195.

61

Fashion Week Announced // New York Times. 1956. December 7. P. 42; Rogers. Rag Race. P. 135; Green. Ready-to-Wear.

62

Limited-Scale Copyrights Set in Textiles // Women’s Wear Daily. 1954. December 7. P. 1, 56, box 4, Resseiguie Collection, BL, HBS; Zill P. New Textile Poser: What Is «Work of Art»’? // Women’s Wear Daily. 1954. December 8. P. 1.

63

Perkins A. Test Case Held Needed on Copyright // Retailing Daily. 1954. December 17. P. 11, box 4, Resseguie Collection, BL, HBS.

64

Stores Urged to Act against Style Piracy: FOGA Supports Views of Marcus // Women’s Wear Daily. 1955. June 28. P. 4; Etherington S. L. Fashion Runways Are No Longer the Public Domain // Hastings Communications and Entertainment Law Journal. 2001. Vol. 23. № 43. P. 51–55; Stanley Marcus, Minding the Store: A Memoir. Denton: University of North Texas Press, 1974. P. 297–321.

65

Goldstein G. M., Greenberg E. E. (eds) A Perfect Fit: The Garment Industry and American Jewry (1860–1960). Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press; New York: Yeshiva University Museum, 2012; Amerian S. M. Fashioning and Selling the American Look: Dorothy Shaver and Modern Art // Investigaciones de Historia Economica. 2016. Vol. 12. № 1. P. 100–108; Daves J. Ready-Made Miracle: The American Story of Fashion for the Millions. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1967. P. 10–15; Milbank C. R. New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1989. P. 172.

66

The Look in Clothes Sets the Style, says Bonnie Cashin // Women’s Wear Daily. 1944. December 14. P. 3; The Meaning of Fashion Today Discussed at the Fashion Group // Women’s Wear Daily. 1953. June 19. P. 7; Bonnie Cashin speech, 18 June 1953, Folder 7, Box 76, Fashion Group speeches and transcripts, FG, NYPL; Lake S. Bonnie Cashin: Chic Is Where You Find It. New York: Rizzoli, 2016. P. 32, 131–132.

67

Berch B. Radical by Design: The Life and Style of Elizabeth Hawes, Fashion Designer, Union Organizer, Best-Selling Author. New York: E. P. Dutton, 1988. P. 97–104, 192–193; Nolf N., Yohannan K. Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1998; Buckland S. S. Promoting American Designers, 1940–1944: Building Our Own House // Twentieth-Century American Fashion / Ed. Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham. New York: Berg, 2005. P. 105–107; Arnold A. American Look. P. 153–158, 203–206.

68

De Mille M. Fall Important Show 1962, Commodore Hotel, New York, 14 September 1962, 1–2, Folder 10, Box 77, FG, NYPL; Taub B. Designer Builds a Junior Business Success on the Chemise Dress // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. August 22. P. 2; Cunningham P. A. Dressing for Success: The Re-suiting of Corporate America in the 1970s // Twentieth-Century American Fashion, Welters and Cunningham. P. 201–207.

69

Kawamura Y. Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. London: Berg, 2004.

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Bateman K. Versailles 1973: How One Show Changed American Fashion History // Harper’s Bazaar. 2015. July 2; Bernstein J. Battle of Versailles Relives 1973 Win for American Fashion // New York Times. 2016. March 4. P. ST9; Morera D. (ed.) Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced. New York: Skira Rizzoli in association with the Museum of the City of New York, 2013; Givhan R. The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History. New York: Flatiron Books, 2013. P. 5–6, 205–207.

1

La Ferla R. Imitate That Zipper // New York Times. 2009. September 2. P. E1; O’Connor K. The Body and the Brand: How Lycra Shaped America // Producing Fashion: Commerce, Culture and Consumers / Ed. Regina L. Blaszczyk. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007. P. 207–227; Kanazawa-Choi E. The Rise of Uniqlo: Leading Paradigm Change in Fashion Business and Distribution in Japan // Entreprises et histoire. 2011. Vol. 3. № 64. P. 85–101; Huang P.‑Y., Kobayashi S., Isomura K. How UNIQLO Evolves Its Value Proposition and Brand Image: Imitation, Trial and Error and Innovation // Strategic Direction. 2014. Vol. 30. № 7. P. 42–45; Edgerton D. The Shock of the Old: Technology in Global History since 1900. London: Profile Books, 2007.

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Engel A. Colouring Markets: The Industrial Transformation of the Dyestuff Business Revisited // Business History. 2012. Vol. 54. № 1. P. 10–29; Federico P. J. The Invention and Introduction of the Zipper // Journal of the Patent Office Society. 1946. Vol. 28. № 12. P. 855–875; Godley A. Selling the Sewing Machine around the World: Singer’s International Marketing Strategies, 1850–1920 // Enterprise and Society.