Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

Lelong Arrives Here to Renew Couture Ties // Women’s Wear Daily. 1945. May 17. P. 1–2; Room of US Styles, says Lucien Lelong // Women’s Wear Daily. 1945. June 1. P. 1; Lelong, Inc. Buys Chicago Building // Women’s Wear Daily. 1947. January 10. P. 21; Perkins B. J. Illness Forces to Close Couture House: Advised to Retire for Year // Women’s Wear Daily. 1948. July 21. P. 1, 48; Coty Purchases Controlling Share of Lelong Firm // Women’s Wear Daily. 1953. July 8. P. 1, 13; Future of Paris Fashions Is Called Bright by Heim // The New York Times. 1958. September 19. P. 20; Lucien Lelong & Ci, Registre de Commerce 68–693, D33U3 0144, CPA. General Assembly meeting minutes. 16 April 1959. P. 1.

22

Couture subventions files, F12 10505, FNA.

23

Balenciaga, RC 274-232B, D33U3 1340, Archives de Paris; Ballard B. In My Fashion. Paris: Séguier, 2016. P. 176–181; Beau de Loménie N. B. Biarritz & la mode: La haute couture et la mode sur la Côte basque – de 1854 à nos jours. Paris: Atlantica, 2015. P. 81–87, 230; Miller L. E. Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Lesley Ellis Miller. London: Victoria & Albert Museum Publications, 2007. P. 60, 70, 92.

24

Donovan C. French Styles en Route; Dior’s Skirt Split Critics // The New York Times. 1959. August 26. P. 32; Future of Paris Fashions; Blaszczyk R. L., Pouillard V. Fashion as Enterprise // European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry / Ed. Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2018. P. 1–3; Montagné-Villette S. La mode de la centralité à l’acentralité // Veillon and Ruffat, La mode des sixties. P. 21.

25

World-Wide Styles Seen in Near Future // The New York Times. 1946. December 6. P. 30; Balmain P. 40 années de création. Paris: Musée Galliera, 1985. P. 45–46; Balmain’s Styles Show No Age Bar // The New York Times. 1950. March 11. P. 55; Balmain Plans American Line // The New York Times. 1961. December 6. P. 55; Furman B. Paris Dressmaker Decries Trade Lag // The New York Times. 1952. October 23. P. 37.

26

Jacques Fath & Cie, RC 272.092B, D33U3 1267, CPA. Note to the press, 25 November 1948, Box USA2, DSAA; Halpert Tells of Fath Deal // Women’s Wear Daily. 1948. November 3. P. 48; Grumbach D. Histoires de la mode. 2nd ed. Paris: Éditions du Regard, 2008 (1993). P. 135–136; Veillon. La mode sous l’Occupation.

27

Drawstrings at Cape Hem // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. August 12. P. 4; Tellin, Newest Paris Couturier, Also Youngest // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. August 23. P. 2; Tellin’s Spencer Jacket Suit with Overcoat // Women’s Wear Daily. 1958. August 1. P. 5.

28

Kuisel R. Capitalism and the State in Modern France: Renovation and Economic Management in the Twentieth Century. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1981. P. 215, 248–250; Pouillard V. Keeping Designs and Brands Authentic: The Resurgence of Post-War French Fashion Business under the Challenge of US Mass Production // European Review of History. 2013. Vol. 20. № 5. P. 815–835; Ministry of Economy, application files, Jacques Heim, Madeleine de Rauch, F12 10505, FNA; Committee meeting minutes, 25 October 1955, 8, CSCPA; Jacques Heim application file, F12 10505, FNA.

29

Dior to Celebrate 10th Birthday // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. January 2. P. 13; Palmer A. Dior: A New Look, a New Enterprise (1947–1957). London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 2009; Schumpeter J. Capitalism in the Postwar World // Essays of J. A. Schumpeter / Ed. Richard V. Clemence. Cambridge, MA: Addison-Wesley, 1989. P. 185.

30

Rapports d’activité, figures from the years 1952–1961, CSCPA; Gabrielle Chanel, RC 93.879, D33U3 0031, CPA; Société des Parfums Chanel, RC 215.042B, D33U3 1078, CPA; Vaughan H. Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War. New York: Vintage, 2011.

31

Fall Fashions – Born in Paris – Bred in America. June 1957. P. 2–3, folder 3, box 77, Fashion Group speeches and transcripts, NYPL; Chanel Look, Top to Toe, Favorite in Minneapolis // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. April 25. P. 4; The Neiman Marcus Award: Chanel Sole Recipient in 1957 // Women’s Wear Daily. 1957. August 19. P. 5.

32

Concern over Model Gown Ruling // Daily Mail. 1933. February. P. 33; Mode: Made in Great Britain? // The Ambassador. 1934. December 1. P. 6.

33

Stanfill S. Anonymous Tastemakers: The Role of American Buyers in Establishing an Italian Fashion Industry, 1950–55 // Blaszczyk and Pouillard, European Fashion. P. 146–169; Fagella C. «Not So Simple»: Reassessing 1951, G. B. Giorgini and the Launch of Italian Fashion. [Диссертация на соискание ученой степени PhD] University of Stockholm. P. 264.

34

Djelic M.‑L., Ainamo A. The Coevolution of New Organizational Forms in the Fashion Industry: A Historical and Comparative Study of France, Italy and the United States // Organization Science. 1999. Vol. 10. № 5. P. 622–637; Merlo E., Polese F. Turning Fashion into Business: The Emergence of Milan as an International Fashion Hub // Business History Review. 2006. Vol. 80. № 3. P. 415–447; Belfanti C. M. Renaissance and Made in Italy: Marketing Italian Fashion through History (1949–1952) // Journal of Modern Italian Studies. 2014. Vol. 201. № 1. P. 53–66; Merlo E., Perugini M. Making Italian Fashion Global: Brand Building and Management at Gruppo Finaziaro Tessile (1950s–1990s) // Business History. 2017. June 1 [электронный ресурс]. www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791-2017-1329299; Rofel L., Yanagisako S. J., Reinach S. S. Fabricating Transnational Capitalism: A Collaborative Ethnography of Italian-Chinese Global Fashion. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2019; Thomas D. Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster. London: Penguin, 2007; Giertz-Mårtenson I. H&M: Documenting the Story of One of the World’s Largest Fashion Retailers // Business History. 2012. Vol. 54. № 1. P. 108–115; Giertz-Mårtenson I. H&M: How Swedish Entrepreneurial and Social Values Created Fashion for Everyone // Blaszczyk and Pouillard, European Fashion. P. 202–208.

35

Porter M. E. The Competitive Advantage of Nations. New York: Free Press, 1990. P. 308–331, 421–453; Donzé P.‑Y. Les patrons horlogers de La Chaux-de-Fonds (1840–1920): Dynamique sociale d’une élite industrielle. Neuchâtel: Alphil, 2007; Lefranc D. The Meta-morphosis of Contrefaçon in French Copyright Law // Copyright and Piracy: An Interdisciplinary Critique / Ed. Lionel Bently, Jane Davis, and Jane C. Ginsburg. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010. P. 55–79; Scafidi S. Who Owns Culture? Appropriation and Authenticity in American Law. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 2005; Stewart M. L. Copying and