Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 11. P. 1, 36Z; Narrow Silhouette, Front View, Stressed in Models Import Group // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 23. P. 3, 26.

5

Style Leadership Called City’s Due // New York Times. 1940. August 5. P. 15; O’Connor K. Anthropology, Archaeology, History and the Material Culture of Lycra // Writing Material Culture History / Eds: Anne Gerritsen, Grigorio Riello. London: Bloomsbury, 2015. P. 73–91.

6

Members in Paris See FOGA Final Victor // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. February 12. P. 1.

7

Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. April 6. P. 6.

8

Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. May 16. P. 4; Perkins B. J. FOGA-Paris Plan to Check Delivery to Model Renters Interests Returning Buyers // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. May 3. P. 1; Perkins B. J. Trouyet, PAIS Piracy Defense Head, Resigns // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. May 26. P. 1.

9

Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris: Many Advantages Seen in Air Service // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 11. P. 36Z; Perkins B. J. Shipping Paris Models by Air This Weekend // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 3. P. 4.

10

Cohn J. W. Clipper Arrival from Paris Couture Openings Emphasize Fast Service // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 8. P. 1.

11

Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris: Many Advantages // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 25. P. 1; Believe War Would Only Slow Couture // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 28. P. 1; Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 25. P. 1.

12

Cannell K. Paris Couturiers, in United Front, Decide to Reopen Immediately // The New York Times. 1939. October 9. P. 3; General Assembly meeting minutes 9 April 1940. Lucien Lelong, 4–5, CSCPA.

13

General Assembly meeting minutes 6 October 1939. Lucien Lelong, 1–2, 13. CSCPA; Perkins B. J. Couture Acts to Maintain French Style Leadership // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 5. P. 1; Buyers Here Wary on Price Boosting // New York Times. 1939. September 9. P. 32; FOGA Cables Encouragement to Haute Couture // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 8. P. 1, 35.

14

Cannell. Paris Couturiers, in United Front. P. 3; Cannell K. Fashion Carries On Despite the Blackout // The New York Times. 1939. November 26. P. 114; Perkins B. J. International Fund Is Proposed to Help Preserve French Couture // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 11. P. 1, 19; Perkins B. J. Collective Paris Couture Showing in New York Suggested // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 18. P. 1, 18; General Assembly meeting minutes 6 October 1939, 3. CSCPA. The Fashion Group International, Wednesday afternoon, 27 September 1939, Biltmore Hotel, New York City, Edna Woolman Chase speech transcript, 28–31, folder 6, box 73, FG, NYPL.

15

Perkins A. K. A Fashion Editor Writes of War-Time Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 22. P. 4; Green N. L. The Other Americans in Paris: Businessmen, Countesses, Wayward Youth, 1880–1941. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2014.

16

General Assembly meeting minutes 6 October 1939, 1, 4, 7, 11–13, and 9 April 1940, 13–14, CSCPA; Cannell. Paris Couturiers in United Front. P. 3.

17

General Assembly meeting minutes 9 April 1940, 13–14, CSCPA.

18

The Fashion Group Inc., Wednesday afternoon 27 September 1939, Biltmore Hotel, New York City, Edna Woolman Chase speech transcript, 30, folder 6, box 73, FG, NYPL; L’Officiel. 1939. Vol. 218–219 (October). P. 29; General Assembly meeting minutes 9 April 1940, 13–14, CSCPA.

19

Perkins B. J. Couture Carries On as Plans Widen for Midseason Openings // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. October 10. P. 1; Lelong Confirms Trend to Becoming Normalcy // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. November 2. P. 1; L’Officiel. 1939. Vol. 220–221 (Christmas). P. 38, 49.

20

Veillon D. La mode sous l’Occupation. Paris: Payot, 1990; Molyneux Reendorses Full Skirts in Ankle-Lengths // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. October 23. P. 1; Perkins B. J. Paris Cheerfulness Inspires American Colony // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. October 11. P. 7; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. October 10. P. 8; Cannell K. Fashion Carries On. P. 114.

21

Cannell K. Normal Styles in Paris // The New York Times. 1939. October 22. P. 64; Cannell K. Molyneux // The New York Times. 1939. October 29. P. D8; Silhouettes Vary in New Paris Modes // The New York Times. 193. 15 August. P.

22

War Economies Help Paris Retaildom to Adjust Itself to Period of Lower Volume // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. October 11. P. 2, 25.

23

Perkins A. K. Fashion Editor Writes. P. 4; General Assembly meeting minutes, October 6, 1939, 13–16; Cannell. Paris Couturiers, in United Front. P. 3.

24

Ateliers d’Equipement Militaire de la Couture Parisienne, 282.302B, D33U3 1362, CPA. Committee meeting minutes, 6 October 1939, 2–3, CSCPA. General Assembly meeting minutes 9 April 1940, 3–4, and 28 January 1942, 36, CSCPA.

25

Mad Carpentier. 282.252B, D33U3 1362, CPA. Marcelle Chaumont. 282.280B, D33U3 1362, CPA. Maison Charles Montaigne. 290.564B, D33U3 1386, CPA. Questionnaire relatif à la Classification Couture-Création, January 1952, Mad Carpentier, 1 Marcelle Chaumont, 1 AN F12 10504, FNA; Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. April 26. P. 1; L’Officiel. 1939. Vol. 217 (September). P. 24; Perkins B. J. Mme Vionnet to Form New Couture Firm // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. May 1. P. 28; New Couture House Opening // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. December 22. P. 1; Perkins B. J. Marcelle Chaumont Is Name of New House // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. January 18. P. 4; Perkins B. J. To Bar Radio Photos from Paris Openings // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. January 22. P. 1.

26

Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. January 18. P. 4; Women’s Wear Dail. 1940. January 22. P. 5; General Assembly meeting minutes, 9 April 1939, 20–23, and October 6, 1940, 24.

27

Meeting of the Committee enlarged to the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, 2 April 1940, 4. General Assembly meeting minutes, 9 April 1940, Résolution n. 2