Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

Deschamps M. La Crise. P. 65; Vogue’s Eye View of the Mode // Vogue (US ed.). 1932. December 1. P. 41; Dressmakers of the US. P. 37–38; Kidwell C. B., Christman M. Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1974. P. 193.

62

Goodman, interview about Uptown Retail Guild. P. 1–2; Dressmakers of the US. P. 38; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 53, 81; Marcketti S. B., Parsons J. L. Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women’s Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry. Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press, 2016. P. 98–144.

63

Dressmakers of the US. P. 142; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 130.

64

Advertisement for the Fashion Originators’ Guild of America // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. June 26. P. 10–11; [Advertisement] Members of the Fashion Originators Guild of America Announce Their Opening Dates // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. June 28. P. 3; Fashion Week Announced // New York Times. 1956. December 7. P. 42.

65

Garment Leaders Draft Code Today // New York Times. 1933. July 5. P. 10; Fashion Guild on 5-Day Week // New York Times. 1933. August 23. P. 26.

66

Mrs. Roosevelt and Mrs. Dall to Get First NRA Coat Labels // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. October 4. P. 1; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 145–146.

67

Rentner to Be Honored // New York Times. 1933. November 20. P. 17; Retailers See NRA as a Lasting Boon // New York Times. 1933. November 22. P. 5.

68

Fashion Guild Plans Protection Campaign // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. May 22. P. 8; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 133–135.

69

Dressmakers of the US. P. 142; Piguet Divulges Names of Firms to Which Early Model Shipments Went // Women’s Wear Daily. 1936. September 1. P. 1.

70

FOGA et al. Sue Lucille Baldwin Here // Women’s Wear Daily. 1936. October 14. P. 35.

71

Goodman, interview about Uptown Retail Guild. P. 1–2; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 137.

72

Business World // New York Times. 1933. June 14. P. 26; Two Guilds in Accord // New York Times. 1936. March 4. P. 30.

73

Question Dress Guild Plans // New York Times. 1933. January 21. P. 29; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 130.

74

Peace Move Made in Guild Dispute // New York Times. 1936. March 3. P. 30; Retailers Attack Dress Style Plan // New York Times. 1935. December 21. P. 30; Marcketti. Design Piracy. P. 119–120, 131–138.

75

Retailers Attack. P. 30.

76

Lunch Meeting Minutes, New York Fashion Group, 11 and 26 September 1933, Folder 25, Box 75, FG, NYPL.

77

First Fall Fashion Group Meeting Honors Mrs. Chase and Reports on Fashion Futures // Women’s Wear Daily. 1935. October 1. P. 2; Proper Sales’ Timing Urged by Hirschmann // New York Times. 1937. June 25. P. 40; Kerr R. Treasurer, 26 January 1938, Biltmore Hotel, New York, 3, Speeches and transcripts, 1938 January – April, box 73, FG, NYPL.

78

Katz E., Lazarsfeld P. Personal Influence: The Part Played by People in the Mass Communications. New York: Free Press, 1955.

79

L’Officiel. 1923. September 15. P. 6; Ibid. Etablissements confectionneur [advertisement]. P. 41.

80

Mlle Chanel to Come Here Again Oct. 1 // Women’s Wear Daily. 1931. July 16. P. 4.

81

Ibid.

82

Plans Chanel Bags, Scarfs to Match Gloves // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. July 5. P. 1, 23; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris: Glove Mfrs Seeking Couturier’s Special Cachet // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. May 29. P. 4; Chanel gloves by Chanut [advertisement] // L’Officiel. 1932. October. P. 4.

83

It’s Paris It’s New York [advertisement] // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. July 19. P. 15; Chanel Style Raincoats Uses Corduroy // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. May 31. P. 20; Mfr. Presents Chanel’s New Scarf Made in Oval Shape // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. January 11. P. 27; Les bijoux Chanel // L’Officiel. 1932. December. P. 28.

84

Advertisement for dresses in «Chanel Cloth» for the brand Rose Amado // Vogue (US ed.). 1932. March 15. P. 26; Bulletin, January 1933, 3, Box 144, FG, NYPL; L’Officiel. 1933. March. P. 18; L’Officiel. 1934. February. P. 62; L’Officiel. 1933. August. P. 18–19; L’Officiel. 1933. March. P. 23.

85

Bizet R. La mode. Paris: F. Rieder & Cie, 1925. P. 21; Hawes, Fashion Is Spinach. P. 46; Chanel contre Laniel, Tribunal civil de la Seine, 29 March 1930, D1U6 002234, CPA.

86

Lundén E. C. Oscar Night in Hollywood: Fashioning the Red Carpet from the Roosevelt Hotel to International Media [Диссертация на соискание ученой степени PhD]. University of Stockholm, 2018; Munich A. (ed.) Fashion in Film. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2011. P. 17–20; Cawthorne N. The New Look: The Dior Revolution. New York: Wellfleet Press, 1996. P. 28; Lelong Emphasized Internationalism of Design at Fashion Group Luncheon // Women’s Wear Daily. 1937. September 29. P. 3; L’Officiel. 1937. December. P. 22.

87

Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. August 8. P. 11.

88

Paul Mazur, address, Hotel Roosevelt, New York, 7 April 1931, folder 11, box 72, FG, NYPL.

89

Lyolène in New York // New York Times. 1934. June 1. P. X6; Dressmakers of France. P. 75; Exclusive Lyolene Group Reported for Retailers // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. June 26. P. 20; Stylists See Paris Shunning Fashions // New York Times. 1934. August 17. P. 17; Sté Lyolène Couture Sport Lingerie, 16 Place Vendôme, 31 August 1934, Bankruptcy (faillites) files no 50288 D12 U3268 (LINA-MAIS), CPA.

90

Questionnaire relatif à la classification couture-création, January 1952, 1, Maison Marcel Rochas, F12 10504, FNA. Rochas, Renouvellement dans la Haute Couture // International Textiles. 1934. December 28. Vol. 2. № 24. P. 12; Nalys R. Lorsque Marcel Rochas requiert