Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

Yale University Press, 2013; Budgets Cost of a Buyer’s Trip // Women’s Wear Daily. 1931. May 19. P. 6; Josephine Baker in an Agnès hat // L’Officiel. 1926. August. P. 27; Glass C. Americans in Paris: Life and Death under Nazi Occupation, 1940–1944. London: Harper, 2009; Archer-Straw P. Negrophilia: Avant-Garde Paris and Black Culture in the 1920s. London: Thames & Hudson, 2000. P. 73–79; Stovall T. Paris Noir: African Americans in the City of Light. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1996. P. 112–118; L’Officiel. 1935. July. P. 30. Пересчет стоимости в долларах США был произведен с помощью инструмента EH.net, используя индекс потребительских цен (ИПЦ).

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Andrew Goodman, interview about the Uptown Retail Guild [анон., б. д.], transcript, 3, x–20 // Gladys Marcus Library, Special Collections, FIT. Copies of French Models Emphasized in This Week’s Retail Dress Offerings // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. March 17. P. 8.

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Deschamps. La Crise. P. 65; Helfgott R. B. Women’s and Children’s Apparel // Made in New York: Case Studies in Metropolitan Manufacturing / Ed. by Max Hall. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1959. P. 19–134; Meiklejohn H. E. Dresses: Impact of Fashion on a Business. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1938; Crawford M. D. The Ways of Fashion. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1941.

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L’Officiel. 1927. March. P. 14; Kenney A. L. Carnegie, Hattie // Notable American Women: The Modern Period; A Biographical Dictionary / Ed. by Barbara Sicherman and Carol Hurd Green. Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1980. P. 135–136; Gregory P. M. An Economic Interpretation of Women’s Fashions // Southern Economic Journal. 1947. № 2 (October). P. 149–150; Crawford, Ways of Fashion. P. 234–235.

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Garnier G. Paris-couture, années 30. Paris: Musée de la Mode et du Costume, 1987. P. 124; Daché L. Glamour at the Drop of a Hat [Каталог выставки]. New York: Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, 2007; Amerian S. Fashioning and Selling the American Look: Dorothy Shaver and Modern Art // Investigaciones de Historia Economica – Economic History Research. 2006. Vol. 12. № 2. P. 100–108; Wingfield V. The Fashion Group International Records c. 1930–1997. New York: New York Public Library, 1997. P. 11; Meeting, New York, January 26, 1928, folders 11 and 12, box 73, FG, NYPL. Wingfield V. Fashion Group. P. 4–5.

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Meetings, New York, April 7, 1931, folder 1, box 72, FG, NYPL. April 20, 1939, folder 5, box 73, 5, FG, NYPL. January 20, 1932, folder 6, box 72, FG, NYPL. September 27, 1939, folder 6, box 73, FG, NYPL; November 9, 1931, folder 4, box 72, FG, NYPL. Kathleen Howard, [ca. 1931–1932], folder 5, box 72, FG, NYPL. Fashion Forecast Conferences, September 6 and 7, folder 10, box 72, FG, NYPL. Fashion Group Bulletin, box 144, FG, NYPL.

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Tableau général du commerce et de la navigation: Commerce de la France avec ses colonies et les puissances étrangères. Paris: Direction Générale des Douanes, 1920–1939. Institut National de la Statistique et des Etudes Economiques. French Export of Wearing Apparel to U. S. Declines // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. March 8. P. 1; Deschamps. La Crise.

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Simon. La haute couture. P. 119–121, 128–129.

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Jones G. G. The Evolution of Multinational Business: An Introduction. New York: Routledge, 1996. P. 9, 27; Bairoch P. Victoires et déboires: Histoire économique et sociale du XVIe siècle à nos jours. Vol. 3. Paris: Gallimard, 1997. P. 76–78; Simon. La haute couture. P. 122–126, 141; Prade Y.‑G. G. Il faut organiser la défense de la production française // L’Officiel. 1932. March. P. 9; Rouzaud. Un problème. P. 135.

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Paris Speculates on Future Policy of Allied Purchasing // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. March 29. P. 2; Allied Purchasing Co. to Operate on Smaller Scale // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. December 26. P. 6; Allied Purchasing Personnel in Paris Get New Posts // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. December 6. P. 5; Perkins B. J. Commissionaires Fed Up with Non-buying Buyers // Women’s Wear Daily. 1931. May 19. P. 6; Perkins B. J. Complexion of Couture Undergoes Periodic Change // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. June 27. P. 4; Perkins B. J. Export Producers Passing Out // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. October 13. P. 7; Rouzaud. Un problème. P. 139; Prade, Il faut organiser. P. 9; Perkins B. J. Paris Going «Cut Rate» to Maintain Tourist Trade // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. September 25. P. 4; Irwin D. A. The French Gold Sink and the Great Deflation // Cato Papers on Public Policy. 2012. Vol. 2. Washington: Cato Institute, 2012. P. 13.

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Perkins B. J. Paris Not Reflecting Country’s Trade Troubles // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. September 29. P. 8; They Can Use More Tourists Here // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. July 18. P. 4; Deschamps. La Crise. P. 39; Budgets Cost of a Buyer’s TriP. P. 6.

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Le 18e au goût du jour, guide de l’exposition. Paris: Musée Galliéra, 2011. P. 14; Augustabernard Reorganization Being Planned // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 4. P. 1; Augustabernard to Close Couture Firm // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 5. P. 28; Deschamps. La Crise. P. 75–77; Perkins B. J. House May Close and Reopen on Smaller Scale // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 10. P. 5; Numéro du greffe (registration number) 50211, Jugement déclaratif du 24 août 1934, Aine Montaillé société anonyme au capital de 850,000 francs, 1, Place Vendôme, cloture pour insuffisance d’actifs, D10U3117, CPA.

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Unsigned document, 9 June 1942, Paris, F12 10503, FNA.

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Questionnaire relatif à la classification Couture création, January 1952–1954, F12 10504, 10505, FNA; Garnier. Paris-couture. P. 98; Perkins B. J. Robert Piguet to Show First Collection Soon // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. September 29. P. 8.

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Speaker: Miss Lilian Fisher, Paris Fashion Representative of Bonwit-Teller // Luncheon Meeting Minutes, 29 June 1932, 16, folder 7, box 72, FG, NYPL; Garnier. Paris-couture. P. 122; The Dressmakers of France // Fortune. 1932. August. P. 76. Vogue (US ed.). 1931. January 1. P. 45; Swinney J. B. Merchandising of Fashions. New York: Ronald Press, 1942. P. 40–41; Millstein G. Mainbocher Stands for a Fitting // New York Times. 1956. March 25. P. 42; Kidwell C. B., Christman M. C. Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution, 1974. P. 193.

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Evans. Mechanical Smile; Simon. La haute couture. P. 137; Perkins B. J. Couturiers’ Terms Balk US Capital // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929.