Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

de l’Assemblée générale de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, part 2. France’s New Decrees Seen Aid to Couture // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. March 1. P. 2; Perkins B. J. Lelong Heads French Government Unit to Promote De Luxe Industries // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. April 12. P. 1; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris: Lelong in Government Post Expected to Bring Couture Closer to Outlets // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. April 30. P. 4; Cannell K. Fate of Paris as Fashion Capital Rests in Hands of French Soldier // The New York Times. 1940. January 21. P. 31.

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Manifestation parisienne à Amsterdam // L’Officiel. 1940. May. P. 33; Most Couture Showings to Begin April 17 // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. April 3. P. 1; Show of Fashions to Support Relief // The New York Times. 1940. May 5. P. 58; Important Artists to Design Tableaux for French Benefit Fashion Show // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. April 25. P. 1; Gown Brings $700 at French Benefit // The New York Times. 1940. May 10. P. 27.

29

The Fashion Group Inc., Biltmore Hotel. Madison Avenue, Wednesday afternoon, March 20, 1940, 4–5, 9, folder 8, box 73, FG, NYPL.

30

Trousers Move Fast into First Line of War Fashions // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 29. P. 14; Perkins A. K. Fashion Editor Writes. P. 4; To USA Fashions // Women’s Wear Dail. 1939. September 19. P. 2; American Fashion Records // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. September 19. P. 3; Investment in Americanism // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. September 26. P. 6.

31

Perkins B. J. No canceling, US importers cable to Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 15. P. 1, 3; Cohn J. W. US business men ponder Europe’s political status // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 10. P. 1, 35; Paris hopeful of «normal» war status shortly // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 21. P. 36; Perkins B. J. Paris skips holiday as work on exports is undiminished // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 13. P. 1; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 14. P. 8.

32

Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. May 14. P. 8.

33

Paris couturiers carry on in unity // The New York Times. 1940. May 25. P. 5; General assembly meeting minutes, 27 May 1940, 1, CSCPA; Perkins A. K. Paris designers busy helping refugees and making models // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. June 11. P. 1.

34

Perkins B. J. Will Couture Accept Nazi Domination? // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. June 19. P. 23; France’s Couture Seen Continuing // The New York Times. 1940. June 27. P. 27; US Designers Can Carry On Alone, Is View // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. June 19. P. 23; Couture Fate in Conquered Land Awaited // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. June 24. P. 1, 24.

35

Direct Style Theft Question Posed by FOGA // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. June 5. P. 1; Crawford D. M. C. Holds Laws and Courts Favor Pirate More Than Style Creator // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. July 11. P. 4.

36

Marcketti S. B. Design Piracy in the United States’ Women’s Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry [Диссертация на соискание ученой степени PhD]. Iowa State University, 2005. P. 136–143; Retail Emotions Mixed on FOGA // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. July 30. P. 16; Gotshal S. The pirates will get you: a story of the fight for design protection. Columbia University Press: New York, 1945. P. 17.

37

New York // The New York Times. 1940. September 8. P. 74; Advertisement for New York Fashion Designers in Vogue // The New York Times. 1940. September 5. P. 12; McLaughlin K. America Searched for Style Motifs // The New York Times. 1940. August 9. P. 13.

38

All-American Modes are Presented Here // The New York Times. 1940. August 23. P. 11; Ellerbe-Wood Coordinated Collection Projects Spring and American Names // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. October 8. P. 3; Ellerbe-Wood’s US Models Showing Stresses Individual Cuts // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. October 10. P. 3.

39

Design American Way, Advises Dorothy Shaver // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. July 30. P. 31.

40

World Fashion Hub New Council’s Arm // The New York Times. 1940. August 21. P. 34.

41

Better Houses Begin Official Fall Openings // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. July 1. P. 1.

42

Cannell K. Paris Couturiers Look for Revival // The New York Times. 1940. July 23. P. 16. Some Couture Firms in Paris Map Fall Lines // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. August 5. P. 23.

43

Perkins B. J. Enthusiasm for Revival of Paris Creativeness Cools // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. July 8. P. 1–2; Cannell K. Paris Couturiers Led by Lelong Plan Method to Hold Industry // The New York Times. 1940. August 25. P. 37; General Assembly meeting minutes 6 August 1940, 5, CSCPA. Statutory meeting minutes. 9 April 1940, 25–26, CSCPA; L’Officiel. 1941. February. P. 40; L’Officiel. 1941. March. P. 38.

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General Assembly meeting minutes, 6 August 1940, 5, CSCPA.

45

Cannell C. Paris Couturiers, Led by Lelong. P. 37.

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New York. P. 74; Resume of Paris Couture Showings Indicates Accent on Big Coats and Culottes // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. October 10. P. 4; Cannell C. Paris Styles Draw German Officers // The New York Times. 1940. October 26. P. 5; Rosevienne Shows Street-Length Dinner Frocks of Black Velvet // Women’s Wear Daily. 1940. September 23. P. 1.

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Secrétariat général, Ministère des Finances. To the Secrétaire d’Etat à la Production industrielle, Direction des Textiles et des Cuirs. Paris, 11 June 1942, F12 10503, FNA; Gasc N. Haute Couture and Fashion 1939–1946 // Théâtre de la Mode / Edmonde Charles-Roux. New York: Rizzoli, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1991. P. 101; Deslandres Y. Mode des années 40. Paris: Seuil, 1992. P. 83; Pouillard V. Hirsch & Cie: Bruxelles, 1869–1962. Bruxelles: Université de Bruxelles Press; Luyten D. L’épuration économique en Belgique // L’épuration économique en France à la Libération / Ed. Marc Bergère. Rennes: Presses Universitaires de Rennes, 2008. P. 210–211.

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Secours National: Entr’aide