Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке - Вероник Пуйяр

31/17380/83458, Martial and Armand & Co., Ltd, British National Archives, London (далее – BNA).

16

Plantel. «La toilette féminine».

17

Paquin, Company Meetings. Paquin, limited // Financial Times. 1900. n. d., n. p., H672, ANMT.

18

Magné L. Robes et Manteaux // Le Courrier de la Bourse et de la Banque. 1903. December 3. H642, ANMT.

19

Pouillard V. Case of Jeanne Paquin. P. 205; Paquin, Limited, press clippings file, March 1908, H672, ANMT; Laurier E. Douze millions de frivolités // Le Figaro. 1907. April 26. P. 1.

20

File Maison Agnès, H632, ANMT.

21

Dorogova W. Boué Sœurs // Joanne B. Eicher, Phyllis G. Tortora (eds). The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: Global Perspectives. London: Bloomsbury, 2017; Foundation of a company limited by shares, 21 May 1906. BT 31/17764/88838, BNA. Copy of register of directors or managers of Boué Sœurs limited, 18 Oct. 1906. BT 31/17764/88838, BNA.

22

The Story of John Barker & Co. Ltd, Kensington, London. Version 2, Apr. 2007. University of Glasgow Archive Service [электронный ресурс]. www.gla.ac.uk/media/media_91174_en.pdf (дата обращения 01.10.2025).

23

Ch. Drecoll, press clippings file, H661, Archives Nationales du Monde du Travail (ANMT); Société G. Beer Limited // Le Répertoire financier. 1909. November 4; Dœuillet, press clippings file, H660, ANMT; Pouillard V. The Rise of Fashion Forecasting and of Fashion Public Relations, 1920–1940: The History of Tobé and Bernays // Hartmut Berghoff, Thomas Kühne (eds). Globalizing Beauty: Consumerism and Body Aesthetics in the Twentieth Century. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2013. P. 160.

24

Crowston C. H. The Queen and Her «Minister of Fashion»: Gender, Credit, and Politics in Pre-revolutionary France // Gender & History. 2002. Vol. 14. № 1. P. 92–116.

25

Colli A. The History of Family Business, 1850–2000. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003. P. 10.

26

Troy N. Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 2003. P. 131–133; Davis M. E. Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2006. P. 38–47.

27

Aubert G. La finance américaine. Paris: Ernest Flammarion, 1910.

28

Dœuillet. Société Dœuillet, Limited. 11 Nov. 1907. 2, H660, ANMT. Dœuillet. Foundation act. BT 31/18149/94098. BNA.

29

Dœuillet Ltd. Prospectus, July 1907. H660, Dœuillet, ANMT.

30

Maison Agnès. Bulletin, 13 June 1913. H632, Agnès, ANMT.

31

Maison Agnès. H632, ANMT.

32

Ibid.

33

Subfile 1914. Maison Agnès. Supplément à la France économique et financière. 1914. March 28; Maison Agnès // La petite cote de la Bourse, Journal financier quotidien. 1914. March 13. P. 1; Maison Agnès // Guide de la Bourse et de la Banque. 1914. February 7. H632, ANMT.

34

Dœuillet file. H660, ANMT; Martial and Armand & Co., Ltd. BT 31/17380/83458. BNA.

35

Les Couturiers en actions [sic] // Le Globe. 1903. September 31. H642, Beer, ANMT.

36

Company Meetings. Paquin, limited // Financial Times. 1900. n. d.; n. p., H672, ANMT.

37

H632, Agnès. ANMT.

38

Paquin Limited, 1908. H672, ANMT.

39

Paquin Ltd. Report, London, 25 Febr. 1913. H672, ANMT; Martial and Armand & Co., Ltd. BT 31/17380/83458, BNA.

40

Chandler A. D. Scale and Scope: The Dynamics of Industrial Capitalism. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1994. P. 59–61; Prosperous Paquin, Ltd // Financial Times. 1903. March 19; n. p., H672, ANMT.

41

Prosperous Paquin, Ltd / Financial Times. 1903. March 19; n. p., H672, ANMT.

42

Pouillard V. Hirsch & Cie Bruxelles (1869–1962). Brussels: Éditions de l’Université Libre de Bruxelles, 2000. P. 50; Sombart W. Luxury and Capitalism. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 1967. P. 88, 170; Paquin’s Sundry Debtors // Financial Times. 1905. March 10; Rappaport E. D. Shopping for Pleasure: Women in the Making of London’s West End. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2001.

43

Makowsky J. Histoire de l’industrie. P. 112–118; Archives commerciales de la France, Aug./28/1897. P. 1085.

44

Makowsky J. Histoire de l’industrie. P. 118.

45

Paquin Ltd. Reports, London, March 4, 1910, 1; February 25, 1913, 1, H673, ANMT; Blanco F. J., Hunt-Hurst P. K., Lee H. V., Doering M. (eds) Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe. Vol. 1. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO, 2016. P. 24; Font L. M. International Couture: The Opportunities and Challenges of Expansion, 1880–1920 // Business History. 2012. Vol. 54. № 1. P. 38–39; Kwolek-Folland A. Incorporating Women: A History of Women and Business in the United States. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 1998; Steele V. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. London: Bloomsbury, 1998.

46

Emery J. S. A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution. London: Bloomsbury, 2014. P. 60–71.

47

Green R. Ready-to-Wear; Crawford M. D. C. The Ways of Fashion. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1941. P. 171; Meiklejohn H. E. Dresses: Impact of Fashion on a Business. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1938. P. 343; Sassen S. The Global City: New York, London, Tokyo. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1991. P. 4.

48

Meiklejohn H. E. Dresses. P. 314–315.

49

Crawford M. D. C. The Ways of Fashion. P. 14; Meiklejohn H. E. Dresses. P. 326.

50

Meiklejohn. Dresses. P. 304; Rentner Dies // Women’s Wear Daily. 1958. July 8. P. 1, 19; Resseguie Collection, Baker Library, Harvard Business School, Boston (далее – BL, HBS).

51

Interview with Ira Rentner, younger brother of Maurice Rentner / interview by Mildred Finger, New York, 31 August 1982. P. 85. Oral History Project of the Fashion Industries, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York (далее – FIT).